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Rabbits


  • Housing
    • Wire Cage - A multi-level wire cage is my preference for housing rabbits, but with a few modifications. This type if cage comes in many sizes, from about 3 feet tall to over 6 feet tall. The biggest you can afford and have room for is the best. Some come with plastic levels rather than wire ones. If you decide on a cage with wire flooring, adding a layer of flooring vinyl (linoleum) to protect little feet is best. On the bottom level, covering half of the floor while leaving half uncovered as a place for the litter box is optimal, protecting feet and allowing spilled litter to fall through. Tie or wire the vinyl down, or your rabbit will pull it up and burrow underneath it.
    • Plastic Cage - I'm not a big fan of housing rabbits in a plastic bottomed cage (usually with wire bars on the top). Rabbits are burrowers and really need the feeling of multi levels.
  • Bedding
  • Recycled Corrugated - I prefer recycled corrugated like Carefresh (NOT in dyed colors), a similar product is available at Wal~Mart stores. It is super absorbant, recycled, and biodegradable, and it is nice and soft.
  • Aspen - a great second choice. No toxic oils, but make sure you get smaller chips, the big bales sometimes have large coarse chips.
  • Pine/Cedar - Other wood chips like pine and cedar - Just say NO! Pine and especially cedar have aromatic oils that can burn tender feet, cause upper respiratory problems and aggravate allergies.
  • Litter Box/Litter - Rabbits are very litter-trainable, most can be expected to find their box upwards of 80% of the time. However, when distracted by play or outside-of-the-cage exploration, accidents will occasionally happen. Keep the litter box clean; scoop everyday, change and disinfect every week.
    • Litter Box - I like a corner box by SuperPet shaped like a slice of pie. They secure in the corner, have a high back and a low front lip.
    • Litter - I love SwheatScoop for rabbits, ferrets and cats. There is even a special formula for small animals. It's all natural, 100% kiln dried wheat, biodegradable, clumping, unscented (smells like baking bread when you pour it), no silica to inhale. It has a nice texture that I have never had an animal dislike.
  • Companionship - If you intend to have more than one rabbit, get them at the same time and raise them together. There is still no guarantee that they will continue to be happy house mates as adults, but the odds are stacked in your favor. Have them altered as soon as your vet deems appropriate, it will keep many, many litters from needing homes and your rabbits will be happier to live together and with you without the stress of raging hormones.
  • Reproduction - Rabbits will reproduce like, well, rabbits if left to their own devices. Even a solitary rabbit will be more stable if altered.
  • Feeding
    • Dishes - There is a particular 'indestructible' parrot dish that I absolutely love. Food dishes that rest on the bottom of the cage are subject to becoming 'pucks' to be pushed around and dumped, and alternate litter boxes. This dish has an arm that clamps onto the bars of the cage, and the bowl itself twists into a notch that keeps it secure.
    • Food - Start with a good solid pellet like Blue Seal, 1/4 to 1/2 a cup a day. Then as much Timothy hay as bunny can eat, they will not over do hay. Then a good sized handful of spring mix with a cherry tomato or two, a couple of baby carrots, a strawberry, blueberry, raspberry or slice of banana. Go easy on the fruits as they are high in sugars, and can give an unsuspecting bunny tummy an upset.
    • Treats - High sugar/carbohydrate treats are not good for your rabbit. save that strawberry for a treat if you must.
  • Water - Fresh water EVERY DAY. Just because your rabbit has a liter-sized water bottle doesn't mean that you can leave it for days until it's gone. Water bottles will develop bacterial and algae growths if not cleaned regularly. Refill daily, disinfect weekly.
  • Health - Keep in mind that this is not an exhaustive list, you should always do your own homework both before you choose to give a rabbit (or any animal) a home, and after to stay abreast of current medical concerns.
    • Rabbit Proofing - rabbits are naturally curious and can't resist investigating small spaces. Wires are also a major hazard for rabbits, who seem to enjoy the chewing the rubbery casings. Keep ALL cords out of their reach.
  • Toys & Enrichment
    • Toys -
    • Tubes -


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Pet Care Index


I am not a veterinarian; I can not diagnose medical issues, offer medical advice, prescribe drugs, or perform surgery.

Reiki is healing, not medicine, and should never be used in place of veterinary care. If your pet is ill or injured, call your veterinarian immediately.

All readings and personal information are kept strictly confidential.


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Last updated Friday, February 11, 2011

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